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You might have heard it a “Googilion” times from your mother, your gym instructor, your nutritionist … telling you that your fucking breakfast is the most important meal of the day. Most of my fucking life, I used to ignore it because who in the fuck would have an appetite to eat when you have just woken up, all your gastric juice in your stomach is still frozen and shit during your night of sleep and it would take some time to fucking melt it. Draining down a Big Gulp filled with Pepsi or popping a can of Pepsi has been my daily morning staple for many years in my teens then I grew up and started getting more sophisticated, instead just a just soda, I made myself Coffee Royal to kick start my day. (don’t try this if you have a rule of non-alcohol before 12pm policy) No wonder I always label myself as a “not a morning person”. I can only fully start my engine in the afternoon, at least until I get a decent meal. But recent months (before my accident), surfing in the morning requires a lot from me and riding the waves with just a can of Pepsi or a glass of Coffee Royal just didn’t do me any justice. I need to refuel to fully ride the waves. Therefore I have been having heavy breakfast every morning before going surfing and it did improved my surfing. It was hard at first but as time moved by and the motivation of having strength to get better waves it has become a habit now. So this is what I basically have in the mornings that I go surfing.
dry toast – carbohydrate for energy
baked potato - carbohydrate for energy
salad (I have found that celery with a dash of lemon and salt with bread taste kinda like cheese) – to help me shit
eggs/beacon/sausages – protein and cholesterol for cell regeneration and also to make me die faster.
On mornings which I need to go in the studio or office, I would take muesli and dry fruits. Instead of washing it down with a glass of orange juice, I always drain down a glass of water mixed with 3 teaspoon of Apple Cider Vinegar. I guess it is way better than OJ because it has a lower content in sugar but what do I know, I practically flush Pepsi down mt throat like water daily. I have been asked by my surfing friends to take it easy because I have just recovered from my injuries and maybe I should take it down a fucking notch, but time isn’t on my side, because some wise man said that time and “tide” waits for no man, and I wouldn’t wanna go against any wise men right? I guess the waves has to take a better shot at me because I ain’t dead yet. Lastly, there is another saying; your body is your temple so you have to take care of it. But too bad I am not a religious person; therefore, I will just let my temple crumble.
